Wednesday, June 29, 2016

Day 3: Getting Tattooed by Elyang and Whang Od!

Read what happened yesterday.

Our day started early.  We woke up at 5:45AM to get ready, to pack our bags because we were heading to Sagada immediately after I finish getting tattooed.

I really had to make sure that I get a tattoo while in Buscalan, considering how hard it is to go up there.  While I was still in Manila, I was contemplating whether to get my tattoo from Apo Whang Od or from Grace (I didn't know of Elyang then).  I had to make a mental PRO/CON list to justify my decision.

Yes, Whang Od is the living legend, she IS the "last" mambabatok (tattooer), and it would definitely mean more; on the other hand, Whang Od is 95, she has less control of her strength, and I've heard stories from people about how painful it was to be tattooed by her, and how deep the wound is.  I am a very sicky person,  I just look healthy, but as my mom would always say, gawa sa papel de Japon (made of Japanese paper, easily torn). haha  So I was also afraid of getting sick while I was traveling, I would be such a party pooper.

The locals in the Buscalan Village joke about how hard Whang Od would hit the bamboo.  They compare the sound that of Grace and Elyang produce when they tattoo: tik tik tik tik tik tik tik... VS that of Whang Od: TOK TOK TOK TOK TOK TOK! hahaha  They'd tell stories how people would cry, and see how their skin will swell up and how the blood would flow out of the fresh wound (blood don't usually "flow" when you get tattooed, traditional or modern).

So when I've finally decided that I was gonna get my tattoo from Elyang, the locals were making fun of me that my tattoo would mean less if it didn't come from Whang Od but I have given them 3 really compelling reasons:

1.  It would hurt a lot less from Elyang.
2.  Elyang would eventually become old too (she is 17, haha)
3.  If Elyang decides to stop tattooing and pursue another career, my tattoo will become Limited Edition.

6:30AM, Elyang was up, she started preparing the hut to tattoo me, I showed her the design that I wanted, I have never seen this design on the internet before, which is why I chose it, and also it was the prettiest traditional pattern I saw on the "menu" board.  Mine was the "moon" apparently (I didn't think it looked like the moon, more like the sun haha) with a mix of honeycomb pattern.

There are a bunch of traditional designs to choose from: like the centipede, the crab, the eagle, the sun or the snake scales:
photo from
at the back, there are silly random designs people ask Whang Od to tattoo like mountains, skulls, ninja star, stick figures, and Baybayin (alibata).
I went to the hut before Zara and Geoffrey; Zara was so nice to cook me breakfast while I was getting tattooed.  

Elyang prepared the thorn, the ink paste, and the bamboo stick.  I showed her the design and the orientation how I wanted the tattoo to be;  I was glad that she corrected me and told me that it was inverted.
She uses plastic coke bottle cap as perfect circle stencil and twigs for lines.  She smears the stencils with ink and stamps it perfectly center on my back before she starts tapping away.  
The tattoo did not hurt as much as I expected.  I really cannot gauge since it's a new position.  I have a few other modern tattoos that varied in pain levels; so really it is quite hard to say that traditional hurt less than modern ones.  Did it hurt less because the part below the nape really hurts less than other parts of my spine?  or is Elyang more delicate?  Maybe it's the altitude too of getting a tattoo at 1,500m above sea level.  But the bottomline is, it didn't hurt that much.  Maybe a 6 out of 10.

It was a different story with Whang Od, after my beautiful tattoo was done by Elyang, I had Apo Whang Od tattoo her signature below the tattoo, it was a simple 3-dot design, like ellipsis.  The pain, 10 out of 10.

Here are a couple of videos I "made":

Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Day 2: Road to Buscalan

Read what happened yesterday

We woke up early to take a jeepney to Bontoc, which takes roughly 2 hours; and then from Bontoc you take another jeep to Tinglayan which is the town below Buscalan, that's another 2 hours.

When someone says 2 hours, I think, ok that's my drive from Quezon City to Makati, I can do that.  But then 2 hours is not really 2 hours, because when they say it leaves at 8:30, it means 10:00; Not that I prefer Manila traffic, but 2 hours in the jeepney is 2 hours of rigorous shaking, we felt like a bunch of over-shaken martinis.  When we arrived Bontoc, we were told the jeep would leave at 1PM, but only to find out that it was at 2PM, then when finally it was 2, we didn't leave until it was 2:30PM.

Several times we were offered to sit on the top load!  Seeing that we looked like travelers with our backpacks; I tell them, are you crazy? I'm too old for that shit haha maybe if I were 20 or something.  I'm not crazy enough to sit on top if there are available seats inside!

patienly waiting for 2PM
In the middle of all the waiting, I calculated the time of arrival: 2 hours from 2PM is 4PM, an hour of trekking, 5PM, it is impossible for me to stick with my original plan which was to come back to Bontoc after getting a tattoo.  I realized that it has taken the WHOLE morning, just to get to Buscalan.

Why did I want to come back to Bontoc?  It is because I was worried about spending the night at the mountains. haha I am such a city person.  I am not nature-y at all.  I have only camped once in my life, and I am uncomfortable without a clean toilet.  I have never been to Buscalan and I do not know what it is like there.  The last time I did "homestaying" was when I went to Antique with a bunch of friends.  I had a hard time because there were 16 of us crammed in 1 small house haha  the breeze that we expected to come at night, did not come and it was so hot; there was no electricity and a lot of mosquitoes.  I have been given some warning about Buscalan and that made me very worried.  But then I had no choice. My tour guide has already booked me a place in Buscalan, he reassured me that the place is nice and we get to have our own toilet.

It is very useful to hire a tour guide.  He  helped me book a spot to get a tattoo, gave me specific directions on where to go,  carried my backpack, arranged transportation upon our arrival, he also booked us a place to stay in Buscalan.  He also has alot of stories about history of the tribes.

The hike up the town of Buscalan was a relatively easier one compared to the trek towards Tappiya Falls; but for some reason, I got really dizzy and felt like puking after the climb; maybe it was altitude sickness or the steps were more steep.  but here I was 30 steps away, giving up.

I'm gonna stay here
Finally made it up!  Zara, Geoffrey (met him in the jeepney) and I were received by the host, asked us to relax and drink some coffee while they were preparing our room.

I was still a bit skeptical until they showed us our house for the night!  Oh the relief I had!  It was a beautiful house with hardwood floors.  It was spacious, clean, homey and the toilet was extremely clean.  I loved it.  I was also pleasantly surprised that they had electricity almost 24 hours a day.  Oh happy day!

We rested for a half an hour until the guide took us to meet Elyang, one of the grandniece of Whang Od.  The other one is Grace, she was the first one that Whang Od taught how to tattoo, but she wasn't around when we arrived.  We also found out that Whang Od stops tattooing after 4 or 5PM.  She wakes up early so she needs to rest early too.

There were 2 other people in line for Elyang.  So we just ended up sitting around and chatted about Whang Od, how much the tattoo hurt, and which tattoo I was going to get.

Our tour guide assured me that he was gonna wake Elyang up at 6AM tomorrow so that I can be the first one she tattoos at 6:30AM.  I apologized to Elyang in advance but she was really friendly and nice about it!

Can't wait to get my tattoo tomorrow!

Day 1: Road to Batad

This year, I turn 33.  I've had my share of epic birthday parties when I was in my late 20s but for the past couple of years, I have been celebrating by being a couch potato.

This year, I went on this bucket-list trip I have been wanting to take for so long.  To go see the Banaue Rice Terraces!  Since I was already in the North, I decided to go check out Sagada and visit Whang Od, the oldest mambabatok (tattooer) in Kalinga.

I was lucky that my good friend Zara agreed to travel with me and celebrate my birthday journey with me!

Pakshet & Pakshet
So we started our trip by booking our bus tickets online!  I was pleasantly surprised that it was quite easy to book tickets online both for GV Florida Transport (to go to Banaue) and Coda Lines to come back to Manila (from Sagada); with that ready, I booked a hotel in Banaue for a night, which was the only night we were sure where we were going to be.

Our Day 0 started traveling from Manila to Banaue, the bus takes about 10 hours including stops.  The bus left Dangwa Terminal at 11:15PM (departure was supposed to be 10:45PM).  Luckily, the bus was not full so we were both able to stretch our legs and sit a bit more comfortably for the 9 hour bus ride.

I have already arranged a tour guide to come pick us up from the station who was going to bring us to see the Rice Terraces and go to the falls.  I had no idea where the falls was or what it looked like.  I just read that there was a certain fall that can be visited when you go to Batad.  I was like "ok!"

We arrived Banaue 7:30AM, checked in the hotel, took a shower, changed to fresh clothes and left at 9:00AM for Batad.  I found our tour guide Raffy on Facebook; he has 5 stars on his Facebook page and clients seem to rave about his services.  He was indeed friendly and a but was a bit of a crazy driver.

We followed him through the Batad Rice Terraces, which was of course, impressive!  I've always wanted to go see and
step on the rice terraces.  We were mindlessly following him towards to falls, not knowing that the trail was 2-hour long and we were already half way there!!!

If you know me, you know how lazy I am.  I don't exercise.  The only walking I do on a regular day is from my table to the toilet. We were an hour in towards the falls and the steep roads are starting to emerge and I realized it's too late to turn back.  It was so hot, I was out of breath, exhausted, in pain and thirsty.  The road was so steep, we needed walking stick to navigate the mountain.  After 2 and a half hours, with about 10 stops, we arrived to the majestic and grand Tappiya Waterfalls!

Tappiya Falls
me dying
Being there by the falls, I thought, oh the trek was worth it.  After an hour of chillin' and swimming in the refreshing cold water, it was time to go back.  It is already the rainy season so we had to make sure to be back before 4PM.  30 minutes into the trek back, I say, is this really worth it?! hahaha I was dying.

The walk back to our tricycle (at the top of the mountain) was less hard (read: NOT easier).  It always seems shorter on the way back, but still first day was a real struggle.  Pakshet (Zara) had an easier time since she's sort of a gym rat, she even managed to try out some "barbels" along the way.  The locals were surprised how strong she was, I boasted that she just won a competition lifting weights a few days ago! haha

Pakshet Palay Lifting!
The night ended early, we were both exhausted (me more than her), we had another early day tomorrow to go see Whang Od!

Sunday, September 20, 2015

A Great Day :D

I had another really interesting day today about my identity haha.  This sort of thing really amuses me and makes me smile!

So I had an early day today, because I had an appointment with the hairdresser at 9AM (i know), because it's time to dye.  My white hairs were sticking out and since I am on my last day of recovery here in Turin, I've decided to finally do it.  So the hairdresser colored my dark brown hair back to black (to my surprise), I guess speaking in Spanish to an Italian doesn't really work.  Anyway, I don't look hideous, so I can live with it.

Today, I also bought a pair of new shoes! Nike Roche Run!  The almost-new ones that I brought with me here is totally tattered and worn out from all the walking I have been doing here in Europe.  So I thought after being sick a few days and not being able to see Cinque Terre (excuses,excuses hehe) that I deserved a beautiful treat! jajang!

my beautiful new Roche Runs!
So today was the first day that I actually strolled around the city by myself.  Walking it today was like looking at a familiar street with new pair of eyes.

The display outside of this store gave me the impression that they were selling wholesale salon stuff because they had hair dyes, shampoos, conditioners, and wigs; but today I was curious enough to take a closer look at the display and saw Ligo Sardines, and I was like wow, Ligo? Curious, I finally went in.

As I entered I realized that the owners were Chinese (as usual haha).  I saw some African people buying cart loads of stuff obviously from home which made me think, this could be like a specialty local store that cater to immigrants (smart!).  As I turn to the next isle, my eyes landed on something familiar, what the?! what grocery is this?  Am I back in the Philippines?  Boy Bawang, Nagaraya, V-Cut, Clover Chips, Oishi Prawn Cracker, Piattos, Chippy, Silverswan Soy Sauce, Datu Puti, it was ridiculous!  It has more stocks than the nearby sari-sari (mini convenience) store near our house! I walked further, Bihon, Toyomansi, Misua, Lucky Me Pansit Canton and my favorite pansit canton, Payless Xtra Big!  OMG! haha I was just thinking about eating this a few weeks ago because this is our regular merienda (afternoon snack) in our office.

I remembered that I do not have enough pasalubongs to give to the friends I'm meeting anymore and so I bought a bunch of Nagarayas and Boy Bawangs and then bought 2 Payless Xtra Big to eat.  As I was walking towards the cashier, I hear some Tagalog and ran into a Filipina who, of course, recognized me as a Filipino based on the products that I hoarded!  She smiled and me and I said, "ANG SAYA DITO!" haha She laughed.

me looking Filipino haha
I walked out of the store with my purchases and was still carrying my old pair of Roche Runs and I know I wouldn't want to be carrying a useless pair of shoes with me; I had the intention of donating it to a church or a homeless person.  Outside the store there were 3 stalls that looked like they were selling old clothes but instead there was a sign that says "TUTTO LIBERO".  I walked up to the woman and asked if all of it were free and she said yes, and I asked if I could donate a pair of shoes and she also happily said yes and accepted my worn out Nike!  How awesome.

Happily walking away, I noticed another store just a block away and entered it.  It was like an everything-you-might-need store.  Went around, grabbed a few things and went to the counter, the owners were Chinese (as usual haha) and calculated everything and said, "si kuai san shi" (4.30).  Haha which then I took out the exact change.  I didn't even bother asking them how they knew that I spoke Chinese haha.  It amused me again and reminded me of my experience in Madrid!

What a great day I had today! :D

Friday, September 18, 2015

My Home in Turin

One of the worst things that can happen to you when you travel is to get sick.  I have been on the road for almost 2 months now and I still have so much to see.

I ended my trip in Spain almost a week ago, after spending almost a month there.  During my trip in Barcelona, on one of the Sandeman free tours I attended, I met a wonderful couple Natalie and Pedro.  We actually didn't talk to each other the first time we met, we only spoke to each other when we attended a Gaudi tour 2 days later.

I am a great believer of destiny.  It does not only apply to lovers, but also to your favorite doctor, to the right dentist, to an inspiring professor, awesome employees or boss, but most especially to great friends.  To state the obvious, Natalie and Pedro and I hit it off once we started talking.  We regretted that we should've talked to each other the first time we met and we could've had more time to spend together.  I then of course promoted Philippine tourism, invited them to come to the Philippines and assured them that they will enjoy their time there.  In return, they invited me to the city they are living in, Turin!  Knowing that I was heading to Italy right after Spain.  We had to say goodbye but promised to keep in touch via Facebook.

As I was planning my trip to Italy, I seriously considered taking up Natalie's invitation to come see them in Turin.  Turin was not even part of my original itinerary but what better way to start a country with familiar faces?

I finally arrived Turin, I got a personal guide who introduced me to the city and the best lasagna and pizza OF MY LIFE (so far, this is my first Italian city afterall).  Got on a free City Sightseeing Bus Tour, spent hours walking and tasting different gelatos around the city, drank wine,  listened to choirs, tasted a traditional tiramisu while weather was cooperating well with me.

ice cream with Kimani their dog

City Sightseeing with Pedro

pigging out!
On my last night before I leave for Cinque Terre, we were supposed to go out and have some ice cream but I felt a little bit of a fever coming over me.  I said I will take a paracetamol and go to sleep and if I don't feel good in the morning, then I'll stay a day more in Turin.  Morning came, drugged, I felt ok, proceeded to head to La Spezia.  By the time I got there, I was wearing a jacket in a perfectly sunny day; and when I arrived my hostel, I couldn't move due to fatigue, drinking water was like swallowing needles, and I was shivering in my hostel dormitory bed.  It was not a good feeling.  I felt home sick and talked to my sister for 2 hours just to feel better along with a few more paracetamols.

My sister and I discussed that if I didn't feel better tomorrow morning, I should just go to a bigger city and go to a hospital and have my throat checked.  My choices were either to go to Florence or go back to Turin.  I sent Natalie a message about being sick and if it were ok that I came back to stay with her and Pedro and if she could accompany me to the doctor; with no hesitation, welcomed me back to their home.

Needless to say, I did not see Cinque Terre.  This is what I saw:

Ostello Tramonti, my hostel up the mountain

Ostello Tramonti Parking Lot
I am such a baby.  I am the youngest of 4 sisters, have always been babied by my family especially when I'm sick and that has made it difficult for me to be alone when sick.  So coming back to Natalie and Pedro's house was like coming back home.  I expected to just have a friend who could help me translate my visit to the doctor but I got family instead!

Natalie went to doctor with me, bought my medicine with me, cooked for me (pumkin soup yum!), fixed my bed, made me ginger lemon tea and just totally took care of me.  I am so grateful!  After being a zombie for the past 4 days, this is the first time that I am actually functioning without paracetamol.  Drinking water doesn't feel as bad as swallowing needles anymore, but more like swallowing fish bones now. haha.  Bottomline is, I am feeling better.

I am now glad that the only thing I have to think about now is where I should go next, Rome or Florence? :)